This Article for published in 'The Times of India' on March 26, 2023
CHENNAI: In 1897, a young monk with a worldwide following, walked on the sands of the Marina, conversing with locals.
He even engaged in wrestling with fishermen. It has been 125 years since Swami Vivekananda, the man who inspired millions across the world stayed in Madras and year-long celebrations are on at the Vivekanandar Illam and Ramakrishna Math. “Celebrations for us me and intensifying focus on rural development and youth empowerment,” says Swami Dharmishthananda, manager at Sri Ramakrishna Math, Chennai. On March 26, lectures on spiritualism from monks of the Ramakrishna Order and a Harikatha concert are planned.
Swami Vivekananda visited Madras three times in his lifetime. His first was in 1892 as a wandering mon k, when he stayed at Santhome, but little is known about this visit. The second was in 1897 after his famous speech at the first World’s Parliament of Religions in Chicago. After a series of lectures across America, he returned to Madras, the city that
had supported his vision, and was given a glorious reception.
Swami Vivekananda stayed at the Ice House (then known as Castle Kernan) for nine days from February 6 to 15. Every year for the past couple of decades, the Math has hosted a
‘Vivekananda Navarathri’ to celebrate the stay. “Crowds would gather everywhere he went. One time, he had to speak standing atop a bullock cart in front of Victoria Public Hall so the crowds could hear him,” says Venkatesh Ramakrishnan, founder of the Madras Local History group.
Swami Vivekananda’s brother Ramakrishnananda established a shrine for Sri Ramakrishna at Ice House with help extended by Biligiri Iyengar, the owner of the house and a fellow disciple. Thus, the first branch of Ramakrishna Math, now a flourishing global spiritual organisation, was started in Chennai. The Swami’s last visit to Madras was in 1899.
Unfortunately, his ship was not allowed to dock due to quarantine rules (he was arriving from Calcutta where the plague was rampant). Swami Vivekananda preached from a boat and handed disciples some holy water from the Ganges, which is now kept in the Math shrine. “Madras always held a special place in Swami Vivekanand heart and we hope to keep the vision alive,” says Swami Dharmishthananda.
Vivekananda in VR
Imagine following Swami Vivekananda in a boat as he swims through the sea, water splashing on your face. You can experience this at the Vivekanandar Illam ultimedia museum’s virtual reality show. Not just that, the augmented reality show allows you to ask him questions!
From Ice House to spiritual haven :
Vivekanandar Illam at Triplicane is celebrating its 125th year, but the building itself is more than 181 years old. "It was built by American businessman Frederic Tudor, known as 'The Ice King', who in the early 19th century shipped ice from America to hotter countries," says Venkatesh Ramakrishnan, an expert in the history of Chennai. He harvested ice using blade-fitted sleds, insulated it with sawdust and shipped it across the globe. He also constructed specially-designed, almost windowless buildings to store his ice. He built 42 ice houses around the world, including three in India at Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta. The ice house in Chennai is the only structure standing." Built in 1842, it was the only building in the city where the American flag was flown during British rule. For about 30 years, Tudor's business flourished before it collapsed due to the introduction of the refrigeration process, says Ramakrishnan.
Around 1880, the building was sold to Biligiri Iyengar, an advocate in the Madras High Court, who remodelled it to make it liveable by adding windows, corridors, and a staircase. He also renamed it Castle Kernan after his friend Justice Kernan of the Madras high court, and used it as his residence. Swami Vivekananda stayed at Castle Kernan for nine days in February 1897, as a guest of Biligiri Iyengar who was his devotee. Sri Ramakrishna Math functioned from here during its first 10 years till 1906 until it moved to Its current location in Mylapore.
Biligiri lyengar put Castle Kernan up for mortgage. It was bought by a zamindar who was excited about moving in with his new bride. He added the compound walls for privacy, but unfortunately his wife left him, and dejected, he decided not to live there. The property came under the control of the Madras government, which in 1917 lent it to Sister Subbulakshmi - a social reformer and the first Hindu woman to graduate from the Madras Presidency - to run the Brahmana Widows" Hostel. "Sister Subbulakshmi was a young widow but her determined father empowered her education which later led to the uplift of many such young widows. For more than two decades, the widows led a contented life at the castle learning, performing plays, swimming, and playing badminton." says Kaveri Bharath, Sister Subbulakshmi's great grand-niece. In the late 1920s, the widows' hostel shifted to Sarada Illam, and Castle Kernan fell into disuse. In 1963, during the birth centenary of Swami Vivekananda, the TN government renamed it Vivekanandar Illam. In 1997, the government leased it to Sri Ramakrishna Math. The lease was renewed in 2020 for 99 years.